Lifestyle: The Return Of The Amuse-Bouche (And How To Make One At Home)

In almost every respect, Rita’s in London’s Soho is a textbook example of contemporary-restaurant cool. The lighting is subtle and seductive; the wines are interesting and generally low-intervention; at launch, there was, if memory serves, a member of the waiting staff rocking both an ironic moustache and an ironic mullet. But if you start a meal here in the proper manner then you will begin with an unexpected blast from dining’s past. You will begin, specifically, with devilled eggs: two split halves of delicately boiled white, spiced yolk piped into glossy, swirled peaks, a scattering of chives and, generally, the unmistakable air of a retro dinner party amuse bouche. The 1970s called and it wants its appetiser back.

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