Masters of Style 9: Nick Johannessen @welldresseddad

Nick Johannessen is well know on Instagram as @welldresseddad and for his style-related podcasts at Garmology. I had the pleasure of meeting Nick a few years ago when he visited the UK from his home in Norway and have had the  privilege of being a guest on Garmology (links below).

1: Nick Johannessen of @welldresseddad & Garmology Podcast (+ Pixie the corgi)

Nick's unique approach to personal style (he tries to define it for us below) is an inspiration for those who wish to break out from the herd and show some individualism in how they dress. He also cares a lot about the damage that fashion does to our environment and writes powerfully in support of sustainable style. His carefully considered answers to my interview questions below are typical of the cerebral sartorialist that he is.

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

NJ: I’m Nick Johannessen, I live in Tønsberg, just south of Oslo in Norway, the oldest town in Norway and a Viking seat of olden times. By trade, I’m a civil engineer. In my spare time, I write a blog, Instagram and create the Garmology podcast. I’m a keen reader, occasionally make or modify my own clothes, have restored and maintained vintage Jaguars and have been in charge of a website for old Jags for almost 30 years.

I very much enjoy seeking out the stories behind things, or people, and sharing my findings with others. Hence why I started the blog 9 years ago and then pivoted into podcasting 2 years ago.

Image 2: clothing details below

GF: How has your relationship with clothes and style changed over time?

NJ: Clothes have seen three phases in my life, at least. As a teenager clothes were important as a tribal identifier of sorts, you were either one of the well-off society kids, maybe a sports kid, or one of the freaks, the outsiders. I was in the latter group, keenly interested in collecting music, creating a local radio show, and flying RC model aircraft. 

My teenage years were spent in Tromsø, a good bit past the Arctic Circle in Norway. While the largest town in the top half of Norway, there were still only around 40.000 people living there, with all the big city lights that a small town brings with it. So fashion-wise we were far from up to date! We’d read the magazines like The Face and the NME but would have to travel to Oslo or London to find the hot stuff, and travel was expensive back then. Even a pair of Dr Martens could be the cause of envy. Basically, it would be one pair of good jeans a year, one jacket and a pair of Nike basketball shoes.

I stumbled into family life at a young age, so missed out on much of the second phase of personal style development, painful as it is to word it like this. Having four kids, hectic jobs, moving around, clothes were something that got very little attention, beyond the most basic needs.

Image 3: details below

Clothes slowly became more of an interest in 2009 when I restarted my life. Some may call it a mid-life crisis, I prefer to think of it as taking stock and charting a new course. Whichever way, it was an opportunity to look at interests that previously had had to take a back seat. I had long been into vintage Jaguars, an interest that is closely aligned with traditional British clothing.

I have strong memories from my childhood of thick tweed and waxed jackets, which later on became something I went looking for. The visual and tactile memory never quite matched up though until I found an old Harris Tweed jacket in a charity shop. Suddenly the look and the heft was there, which informed my direction in that respect.

The second mission was to find a proper waxed jacket. This is actually harder today than it used to be, as whereas waxed jackets used to be more of a standard item with few variations, nowadays there are endless variations and mostly to a lower quality than 20 years ago. Luckily there is an almost infinite number of old jackets for sale, and mostly in good condition and fairly priced. As long as they don’t smell too awful, it’s mostly a case of a rewax and minor repairs to bring an old jacket back to vigour!

Image 4: details below

GF: How would you describe your style?

NJ: I think in all honesty it’s a bit of this and a bit of that, not really adhering to any clear style or subcultural checklist. A bit of tweed, a bit of country, some vintage and army surplus, good leather footwear and Japanese denim. The fun for me lies in mixing it up. Japanese magazines would likely label some of it as “rugged”, which is less down to me being a particularly macho guy, but more to do with the “heavy-duty” and longevity of the clothes.

A big part of my wardrobe though is that almost everything in it has a compelling story in one way or another. While I quite rarely bump into anyone that is remotely interested in the stories, I take great pleasure in them. It could be down to how something is made, who made it, how I came across it, or just some arcane historical minutiae that sparks interest.

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GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

NJ: Norway is not a great place to shop for the clothes I am most interested in, so mostly I find stuff online, or when I’m travelling. Or from trawling the charity shops and jumble sales for interesting finds! For the most part, though, it’s looking around online, at the typical auction sits, sales sections in forums, the retailers, both secondhand and new and the more recent reseller-sites where people sell their unrequired clothes. 

Online is dangerous though, as it’s very much easier to buy stuff than when you’re physically able to inspect it and try it on, and then have to pony up the readies!GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

NJ: Most of what I own is definitely off the rack, though also mainly secondhand, as my tastes are more expensive than my wallet allows. In principle, I love the idea of vintage garments, but it’s really difficult to find pieces that I like and that fit me. A lot of what is available, i.e. what has survived time, is small in size and doesn’t fit. There is also the problem of finding actual interesting vintage, as much of what is sold as “vintage” is merely quite recent secondhand stuff.

I would very much like to test the water in tailoring, as it would be a unique chance to have something that really fits me well. Being of the “little teapot” configuration (i.e. short and stout) does have its disadvantages when it comes to standard sizing!

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GF: What are the main style influences in your life - past and present? 

NJ: This is one of the hardest questions to answer, as experience has shown that most people tend to view their style as unique. I’m really not sure where my own inspiration comes from, though most likely it’s visual cues from sources like social media and TV. Some tv-series and films have incredible costume departments that produce very intriguing, and artfully aged clothing! Much of it comes down to textures, fabrics, stories and well, engineering and craft.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

NJ: I’m not spoilt for choice when it comes to local shops, there are very few that hold any interest in Norway at all.

When it comes to brands there are a few I follow and engage with, mainly smaller ones, with a more craft orientated approach. Brands like LaneFortyFive and English Utopia are leading the way in making clothes to order at fair prices. Brands like Mister Freedom create playful and interesting recreations of a past that might have been. 1st Pat-rn from Italy makes a range of high quality and interesting garments that work well with other styles.

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GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

NJ: Believe it or not, this is a really really difficult question to answer! The really complete reply would be like the Oscars results, with nominees, runners ups and winners in an array of categories. I’d even have to distinguish between actual clothes I wear and clothes that are more collectable in nature. Some of my favourite garments are things I seldom wear but find pleasure in owning and handling, more as artefacts than clothing.

Favourite piece of outerwear: The Mister Freedom “Mulholland Master” (a take on the classic motorcycle jacket, but astonishingly well made)

Favourite tweed coat: The Follifoot in Donegal tweed from Cordings (wonderful tweed and an incredibly versatile coat)

Favourite shoes: The “Coupen” boots by Rolling Dub Trio (the shape and quality is sublime)

Favourite winter boots: The “Ice Cutters” by Red Wing (don’t look good, but last forever)

Favourite waistcoat: The “Ranger” by 1st Pat-rn (great fabric and design with versatile uses)

The list could really be almost endless.

Image 9: details below

GF: A great answer, Nick - I always like to see Cordings in a list of favourites. It's a store that has been around for decades but is a hidden gem for the sartorially inclined - but back to the questions: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

NJ: I think that I’ve become better at seeing what will work with what I have and what might take things in an interesting new direction, and really what sort of looks work for me. In all honesty, I have slowed down a bit when compared to the initial euphoria from 12 years ago. As time has passed I have become more discerning, a little wiser, and a lot less willing to buy something just to hold it. Once you know yourself better, it becomes less about trying new directions, and more about developing what feels right.

GF: I certainly echo that, Nick. What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for good clothes and style?

NJ: I’d like to say my engineering background has some influence on this, but I think it’s probably more thanks to my curious and nerdy nature. By learning some sewing skills and picking up knowledge from those that know more than me, I have enough insight into the making of clothes and fabrics to see what is good and what is not worth buying.

Style is a trickier one, as who really knows what is “good” style? To my mind, it comes down to a matter of having some confidence in your own judgement and a degree of curiosity and playfulness. Choosing to share your efforts with the world via social media is another matter altogether and one I would warn against.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

NJ: Look around and see what you like, see if something similar works for you. Do some research into the sort of things you are interested in, so as to have more of an idea of what is actually good and worth your investment. Go places where you can actually try things on, as this makes for more educated purchases than ordering online. Don’t be afraid to go secondhand, you get a lot better value for money and there is a lot to be found.

Remember: At the end of the day you are dressing for your own pleasure, while we may think everyone is keenly judging us, the reality is that most people hardly notice (this is a reason to stay off social media, avoid the judgement of strangers). Have your own rules and don’t feel you need to follow a set code, though listen to your partner, they will often have your best interest at heart!

GF: Many thanks, Nick for the thought-provoking discussion. Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

NJ: On Instagram as @welldresseddad on the web at welldresseddad.com and on all podcast services as Garmology (and his interview of me).

Click here and scroll down for more Masters of Style on Grey Fox Blog.

Photo and outfit details:
1: 1st Pat-Rn jacket and vest, Oni Jeans, Lennertson shoes and Pixie the Corgie!
2: Maharishi Harris Tweed jacket, self made waistcaot, Engineered Garments Oslo pants
3: Mister Freedom Pea Coat, Work and War beanie, Oni denim jeans, Rolling Dub Trio boots
4: Tom Smarte hat, Cordings Follifoot coat, Hansen Garments trouser, Trickers boots, SEH Kelly gloves, Mister Freedom waistcoat
5: English Utopia waxed jacket, Nigel Cabourn Harris Tweed vest, William Lennon boots, Tusting bag.
6: Gloverall summer duffle, Peregrine sweater, Bucktrout Harris Tweed trousers, Red Wing boots
7: Nigel Cabourn Mallory jacket, Haar Distiller pants, self made waistcoat (repurposed Laura Ashley skirt!)
8: Left: Vintage Belstaff Trialmaster, grannymade fisherman's sweater, Oni jeans. Right: Vintage Swedish army parka, self made waistcoat from upcycled army fatigues, Hansen Garment trousers.
9: Vintage Barbour Border, Stanley Biggs sweater, Hansen Garments trousers, Trickers shoes, Curzon waxed hat.



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